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  1. Earlier
  2. hmmm, not quite complimenting for a s14. sorry mate, but its personal choice
  3. Stereotypical driver busted for speeding...

    i was about to say the same thing! but still... what an idiot not really, most parts of welly road is straight and down hill! very easy to get up speed. also he would have been in excess of 130km/h to 140km/h. may have been a gtr and not a gtst as someone said as they are cheap as now and plenty around. so what if its over the power to wieght ratio. majority of members here own cars that are over the power to weight ratio. and many of us have disable the speed restrictor/limiter. the cops were too linient, they should have impounded the car for at least 3 monts (extenuating circumstances are present to bypass the initial 48hr impound period). then they should take him to court and make him have a massive fine (about 5k) as well as court costs and impound and towing fees. then they should take away his priviledge to drive for at least 12 months and also give him about 12 months of a community based order at may be the alfred hospital trauma ward to see first hand the damage road accident have to the human body and the emmotional trauma that follows. angelo
  4. In Need Of A 180sx Head Light

    +1 for holfords. they might just have the loom and plugs that you need instead of the whole unit
  5. good mechanix in melbourne

    GSB Automotive in glen waverly is good too - for all types of cars.
  6. who's going....

    for sure! to bulla. cos its cheap for me (monash uni has a chalet for staff and students) costs about $120 (from memory) for the week and you get discounted rental and discounted passes for the lifts!
  7. CA18DET Wastegate Actuator

    CA18DET standard wastegate in working order.
  8. ca18det engine parts for sale

    Do you have the standard CA18DET wastegate actuator?
  9. No probs man, we've all been stumped by strange car problems at some point lol. If you're considering cams, then go for broke and do them too. I've driven on non-VCT poncams and they were alright... probs have to do it myself if I find the SR20DE cams don't cut it for me with my compression ratio. If you haven't already, do some research with regard to cams/springs and VCT, since you don't want to delete VCT (you'll lose some response), and the wrong cams/springs can pose a problem. The best people to ask for advice on these forums will be Johnny (Does Pipe Stutututtutu on here and SAU) or Stao (Hypergear on NS and Performance Forums) of Hypergear Turbos. Stao has a thread for Hypergear detailing his testing and the results people got with their combinations. Lots of good info to be had: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/topic/538388-hypergear-sr20det-turbocharger-innovation-evaluation-and-testing/ To be honest, I don't understand why anyone would blame the .86 housing... makes no sense considering power is a peak figure, and bigger housings are aimed to make more power at the sacrifice of response. If anything, a bigger exhaust housing should promote stability by helping to evacuate gas more efficiently, so you should experience fewer problems at the top-end than with a smaller housing. More confusing is that they would point to housing size as being the cause (i.e. boost comes on too late to make power, so it's just starting to hit peak efficieny at your rev limit), yet power on your dyno graph clearly stops ramping up at 4700rpm when the wastegate is opened by the EBC, power dips sharply at a point where boost is still climbing, then power barely ramps up across 2000rpm at the top-end! Even running N/A it should make a little more power after 5000rpm. Obviously the .86 housing is not ideal for your SR20, as you get virtually no boost before 4750rpm, however response is an entirely different topic to detonation (i.e. the real reason for the imposed boost limit and that bizarre plateau) and boost ramps up quite smoothly. My understanding is that when turbos limit power it's due to a small turbine housing choking up flow at high rpm, or a small compressor housing failing to generate any more boost in the top end.
  10. Sr20vet conversion

    Hi as per title i have a complete sr20vet from xtrail with wiring and all stuffs and i am collecting knowledge before opening and starting my work. :I am changing the cams to n1 cams, :changing ro cosworth head gasket :putting rocker arms both sides. So it turns to sr20ve p12.( If any thing else needed for being p12 do let me know) :I am deleting cas. Because going on link ecu. Applying Hall sensor kit. :Manifold (exaust) will be changed (hypertune) :intake manifold complete sr20det story Questions : But I want to ask some additional things What other parts i need. Do i need these parts oil pump and oil strainer Oil block Oil Block v2 "SR20" Do i need to mill the crank pulley And what other thing i need for the conversion
  11. Hi as per title i have a complete sr20vet from xtrail with wiring and all stuffs and i am collecting knowledge before opening and starting my work. :I am changing the cams to n1 cams, :changing ro cosworth head gasket :putting rocker arms both sides. So it turns to sr20ve p12.( If any thing else needed for being p12 do let me know) :I am deleting cas. Because going on link ecu. Applying Hall sensor kit. :Manifold (exaust) will be changed (hypertune) :intake manifold complete sr20det story Questions : But I want to ask some additional things What other parts i need. Do i need these parts oil pump and oil strainer Oil block Oil Block v2 "SR20" Do i need to mill the crank pulley And what other thing i need for the conversion
  12. Thanks Pmod. I appreciate the massive effort you put into your reply. I really do I did have the injectors tested at Unigroup myself and they said "they're ok but they could atom better" so I reckon you are right. Everyone blames the turbo 0.86 housing and I have read so much to flat out disagree. A little l"ag" is not a missing 70kw I have been already coincidently lookings at the Taarks set (bosch) and am thinking I may go for the 1200cc too and go for a retune. Do you think I should get the Tomei poncams (256/256) in at the same time for the bigger turbo and go for gold? As for the spitfires and rags in intercooler. They checked that as they were baffled at the lower power output too and did a heap of troubleshooting.
  13. "JECs side feeds, flow tested" Did you get them flow tested, or were they the cheap "high flowed JECS flow-tested remanufactured" injectors off eBay? Those $250 eBay JECs injectors are notoriously bad, either due to inconsistent flow or poor atomisation, so get them tested yourself or replace them with oem-quality injectors like Nismo 750s, a top-mount rail with Bosche injectors (Taarks sell conversion kits for top mount injectors), etc. If you have access to a spare rail with something better than what you have, it could be worth testing. I'd also suggest you check your pump and FPR with a fuel pressure gauge, to confirm that you don't have an issue there. There's a reason the eBay injectors are less than half the cost of reputable gear. "splitfire coils (blue ones)" Try some OEM coils if you have access to any. I'm not that trusting of Splitfires, heard too many bad reports in the past, but they might be absolutely fine like your tuner said. "BKE7 something spark plugs" Those are one grade colder than OEM which is correct for your power goals. It could be that the spark is blowing out, in which case gap them down to 0.7 or whatever. Search and you'll find threads on that situation. "In short all at the same time. The intercooler though was what was on the car originally." Check your intercooler pipes to ensure there aren't any rags lodged in them from the turbo installation. It's happened before. "The timing was not advanced further due to detonation" Get hold of a graph of AFRs vs RPM at peak power. If the car is detonating, is it leaning out or running rich? We need more information to diagnose the problem that that dyno sheet. My money is on the yum-cha JECs injectors, looking at how it ramps up on the graph, holds constant boost, then power goes down, up and all over the place. Do some reading on modified JECs and you might think the same. For example: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/topic/2441472-five-o-motorsport-1000cc-1200cc-side-feed-injectors-review/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440013-jecs-injectors-from-usa/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364031-jecs-injectors/?page=2
  14. 2010 Hyundai Getz 1.4L5 spd Manual3 Door Hatch195,000kmsOnly 2 ownersFull service historyLast minor service was completed at 193,000kmMajor timing belt service completed at 183,000kmNew front brakes pads & discsNew batteryRWC providedRegistration until Aug 2018Some minor scratches and dents but overall very good condition and well looked after mechanically.Car has been run on premium 98 fuel its whole lifeMakes for a very fuel efficient and reliable run about or first car.Surprising storage space in boot when the rear seats are down. Price is $3500 Call or text to come and inspect today.Car is located in South East suburbs of Melbourne Peter 0413 785 268 More pics here: Gumtree Ad
  15. In short all at the same time. The intercooler though was what was on the car originally. The plugs are new but I will recheck them. Tuner though has said he has checked them and my splitfire coils (swapped them out for troubleshooting). Internal gate. Actuator is rated for 14psi. Boost controller set for 14 and 19psi (185kw at 19, 145kw at 14psi).
  16. Is the only change the turbo or were other mods made at the same time? Have you checked spark plugs to see what colour they are? Is turbo internal or external wastegate? what boost pressure you running? What is the actuator rated for?
  17. Wanted CA18DET

    Chasing a CA18det motor, manual gear box, wiring loom and ecu. For swap into a datsun 1200 ute! Located in Melbourne, have cash waiting. Cheers
  18. Hey all. Looking for opinions on those who would know what is wrong - if you look at the dyno, it is just not good. Mostly validate if I need bigger size cams, etc. S15 Jap Spec-r. Running GTX2867r with 86 rear housing. (brand new Gen2) Stock cams. 850cc Injectors (JECs side feeds, flow tested), splitfire coils (blue ones). Blirtz Spec-r boost controller. Custom hard intake pipe (3inch?) 455L Walbro Fuel Pump. Z32. BKE7 something spark plugs (new and the correct ones). Kakimoto Regu 06&R with resonator removed. High flow cat, tomei 3" dump. FMIC (generic). As the dyno results show - no power. People like to blame the housing, others the tuner. The tuner is good, those who he is all agree. The figure is way down regardless of the housing size. I don't believe the housing is the issue either. Just a LITTLE more lag. The timing was not advanced further due to detonation. FYI comp test is fine (135 to 145 across all 4 from mem). Leak test done - no boost leaks. The car had the T28 before and would move even at 6th gear at 100km/h, my old S15 had a 2871r 0.64 and moved still without a tune more at under 5kRPM. Again, No boost leaks, injectors have been tested. With no cat and exhaust it made 192kw. So that eliminates the exhaust. I want my bottom end back and my 260kw I should have. Tuner is saying E85 and cams are needed as some SR20s just don't make power. I am hoping not to rely on E85 to make her move again. With all the above info, WHAT THE HECK IS WRONG?!?!? Thanks all.
  19. 180sx // RB20

    Got shifter in and hardtuned lanyard as an extra safety for springless handbrake and made a quick little frame with shade cloth nailed to it for this fcked australian summer sun More tomorrow
  20. A beast of an amplifier, able to easily run the most demanding setups. Amp is in excellent/near new condition, setup tuned for SQ. Currently powering two Rockford Fosgates P12 12" subs. Will sell the subs with the AMP for an extra $200. Can show a working demo. Serious buyers only please. Here are the specs. Mono Subwoofer Car Amplifier High Efficiency Digital Circuit Design 1500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms 2400 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms 1000 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohms CEA-2006 compliant Variable Low-Pass Crossover: 50Hz - 40kHz Signal to Noise Ratio: 82dB Variable Bass EQ: 0 to +12dB, fc=50Hz Variable Subsonic Filter: 5Hz - 30Hz, -24dB/oct. Ultra-Wide Frequency Bandwidth: 5Hz-45kHz for 4ch, 5Hz-400Hz for Mono (+0,-3dB) Price: $400 (Amp only), $600 (including subs) Location: Chadstone Willing to Post: No Contact: 0411335111 - Harry

    So apparently I have heard on the grapevine that a tender has been put to carry out construction of the track. Just hearsay from a local, but construction should begin soon with a view to finish early-mid 2019. Google maps shows the outline of the track has been cleared/mapped out. It's a slow process, and it's driving me crazy how long it has taken, but I'm sure it will be worth the wait. circuit italia.bmp
  22. This is really interesting event! Can you be my consultant to give more information about this event?
  23. Nissan silvia s15, fitted with Toyota 2jz Car is registered and engineeered in nsw. Bonnet is a little faded Body isn't perfect, the price is firm , it wouldn't have done 200ks in the last nine months Full head service 200ks ago Kelford T202-d cams Kelford 80 pound valve springs Arp head studs Precision 6870 turbo 6boost exhaust manifold Hypertune intake manifold Hypertune throttle body 1000cc injectors Tremec tko-6 5 speed Gibson's tail shaft 4.3 lsd 4 inch exhaust with Magnaflow muffler Haltech p1000 computer Eboost Twin walbro 460 fuel pumps Dash 8 fuel line 4 inch plazmaman intercooler with 3 inch piping factory dash works Tein super street cool overs R33 gtr brembos on front. List goes on Currently making 608hp on 19.5psi 540hp on 14.5 psi Runs e85 only I am only advertising this as it just doesn't get driven Please no time wasters or anyone trying to get it cheaper, if you don't like it or the price , don't comment please , Located Newcastle nsw. It's not perfect Best to come and view the vehicle Registered till June 60800 ks on the clock but being import who knows. Please contact me on 0412426573.

    Ebay? Origin Australia?
  25. 180sx // RB20

    Got that bitch bolt out of the clutch cover first go then got a new matching bolt in and box on went under the side to bolt on box crossmember and the holes lined up mint after prying it to the passenger side from the middle hole with one of them claw gear wrench things, basically an adjustable pry bar the engine went in so easily as well mainly cause of having no top rad support on yet Gonna back each of the four gearbox member bolts and two engine bolts induvidually and put removable threadlocker on them as i forgot to do those ones at the time I did the flywheel and clutch cover with loctite but not the bellhousing bolts as i didnt think it needed it These photos were just after moving the crane away and box only help up by the red ally jack there, so it sits properly now that the box is bolted up but it was too dark for photos. definitely need to tuck the loom under the first 3 cylinders runners inline with where it already is on the last 3 atm. Then got to put on tailshaft tomorrow, redrill throttle cable mount about 60deg anticlockwise so that i have full adjustment and engagement for the cable length. No idea which speedo cable it is but it'll work fine I'm pretty sure unless i find a problem tomorrow. Remove BMC and try to remove snapped bolt+snapped ez-out from a front port lol. Ragequit when this happened and haven't fixed it yet. think I have 3 options; successful remove it myself, or, get a thread doctor to remove it if quoted like $25, or, worst case, new BMC. Then plumb my front brakes, run fuel hose from where hardlines stop at rear to tank (2x 300mm~) and at the front to the fpr->rail->return to hardline, and mount fpr. Might make a scrap metal cheapo BMC stopper too. Also on that topic I'm going to try make some sunroof hinges out of ground down bolts welded to some 2mm flat stock in the right way dimension wise. People have asked $150-200 for these as they're so rare now.. $100 new shipped from USA if I fail at this as well as the BMC hahaha Also got to weld on top rad support now and then mount rad and intercooler, thermos, front reo and front bar. Exhaust needs one more hanger just behind the cat section welded on too, will unbolt test pipe and buy a stock cat to gut and weld a straight pipe inside I did this to my old r32 that had an rb20det and it was the mod that made me the happiest, so definitely doing this again haha. Who doesn't like flames honestly Will have to buy 2 and keep one in good condition for if I get accused of having no cat and get sent to pits I'd imagine though Coilpacks are next on the list, I have 6x ls1 coilpacks that i need to make up a bracket and choose a spot for, then make a little wiring loom and custom leads (black of course) Cold side cooler pipes After all of that I need an ECU, injectors on a rail and a turbo kit. Bolt all of that on and sort dump pipe->cat connection (cut each pipe til they meet then weld) and plumb hotside cooler piping. Wiring I need to sort out whats going on with fuseboxes in the engine bay. From what I know there's a body loom with an interior fusebox and some relays, obviously an engine loom running from ecu to engine sensors and shit, a alternator and starter motor loom (lower secondary engine loom). But there must be another loom for engine bay fuse boxes? OR are all 3 fuseboxes (2 engine bay, 1 interior) all part of the body loom and that runs under rad support and back into ecu-side of the car? I'm hoping it's what I think as that makes the most sense and I've got enough ahead of me with making sure all my connections are correct let alone having what I think chucked out the window
  26. 180sx // RB20

    Put the loom on roughly (still gonna tuck front 3 cylinders section) and got the box on last night. BUT I BROKEN A FUCKEN CLUTCH COVER BOLT. So now I'm off to go get that fucking little shit out and continue on will update again when motor goes in as a lot more can happen around that (driveshaft,rad support, rad, intercooler mounting, piping etc etc.)
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